Repairing display: Acer AL1916W A (third version)

Introduction

I have already repaired two different versions of the 19” widescreen Acer AL1916W monitor (and a couple non-wide versions too). Here is the third version. Externally, it is still the same 16:10 aspect ratio monitor with a resolution of 1440×900, and a response time of 8 ms with a 500:1 contrast ratio. In other words, this model in general always seems to use the identical TN panel.  The “A” suffix indicates an analog-only version, and the “s” stands for silver color.

Stitek

This one was entirely manufactured in China back in 2007 and if I remember it correctly, its symptom is that the backlight doesn’t turn on. It claims to have dozens of various industry certifications on the back, yet with all it’s certifications, this unit still failed (dropped dead like a fly), just all the others do. So lets crack it open! The procedure is mostly still the same as the other AL1916W versions. Firstly, we remove the plastic cover over the stand mounts.

Podstavec

Next we remove the four screws that secure the mounts. Most of the time there are three screws in the bottom back part, after removing them, the chassis can be seperated by the plastic seam around the frame. Next we unplug the flat flex cable from the menu button board. Notice the screw in the middle – it’s almost always present in wide Acer displays (but usually not in the 5:4 aspect ratio monitors, as they’re narrower). The purpose of this screw is to provide contra for when the buttons are pushed.

Konektor

Next we have to remove the metal casing – this is one of the sturdier models so it’s all screwed together, and not just enclosed in the plastic shell, as is common on inexpensive monitors. This model is actually a later revision of the second version, and therefore, it’s mostly similar in its construction.

D-Sub

The board casing is screwed into the display casing. To remove it, you need to loosen a couple of screws, as well as the hexagon nuts around the D-Sub input.

Vidlice

And finally the two screws in the AC receptacle. Than you can finally remove the metal.

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